Also Known As: Fathead Anthias, Hawkfish Anthias

Compatibility and Behavior
The Sunburst Anthias (Serranocirrhitus latus) spectacularly breaks the anthias mold entirely, trading the slender torpedo build of its Pseudanthias cousins for a deep, tall, teardrop-shaped body and a blunt, thickened head that earns it the Fathead nickname. Coloration grades from golden yellow-orange across the upper body into rose pink and finally deep violet-magenta toward the belly, an effect created by tiny yellow spots covering each scale that shrink downward until the purple base shows through. The face is the highlight, with the eye ringed in yellow and two long golden streaks running down each cheek like a bejeweled headband. Behavior is equally distinctive: rather than hovering in open current, this species stays close to rockwork and coral, moving in short elegant flashes and often perching at odd angles, sometimes upside down beneath a ledge. It's completely reef safe and won't bother corals, clams, or inverts. The critical compatibility point is that this is a genuinely shy fish, so pair it with calm companions like small gobies, firefish, cardinalfish, royal grammas, clownfish, and peaceful fairy wrasses, since active tangs, aggressive dottybacks, and fast boisterous feeders can keep it pinned in a cave where it struggles to feed. A useful counterintuitive tip: providing more hiding places rather than fewer actually makes this fish bolder and more often visible. Unlike most Anthias it does perfectly well kept singly, though a pair or trio works in a larger tank. As a protogynous hermaphrodite all begin as females with the dominant individual transitioning to male, so never house two large specimens together.

Aquarium Requirements
Because this species is comparatively sedentary and stays near the rocks, a smaller display works well, and a 40 to 70 gallon tank suits a single specimen, with 100 gallons or more preferable for a small group. Aquascaping is the most important factor by far: build deep, interlocking rockwork with numerous caves, ledges, and dark overhangs so the fish always has an immediate retreat, paired with some open water for its short darting flights. Subdued to moderate lighting is genuinely preferred given its deeper-water origins, so if you run a bright reef fixture, create heavily shaded pockets where it can settle comfortably. Moderate to strong, well-oxygenated flow suits it, and keeping the tank on the cooler side of the tropical range reflects its natural depth. Feeding is the main husbandry demand. One thing worth knowing: in many cases Anthias only eat food drifting in the water column and lose interest once it settles, so plan on three to four small meals daily to support its metabolism, with an attached refugium producing copepods for valuable supplemental grazing. A reluctant new arrival will usually start on live Artemia or copepods with the lights dim before transitioning to frozen. A tight-fitting lid is essential, since Anthias are documented jumpers.

Specifications
Approximate Size: Sm/Md: 1–2", Lg: 2–2.5"
Diet: Carnivore and planktivore; frozen mysis, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, copepods, cyclops, and oyster eggs, plus quality micro pellets and flakes once settled, fed 3–4 small meals daily
Origin: Western Pacific
Care Level: Moderate
Reef Safe: Yes
Temperament: Peaceful and reclusive; does well kept singly or as a pair or trio, but never house two large specimens together
Special Considerations: A shy fish that needs deep rockwork with plenty of shaded retreats and calm tankmates to feel secure enough to come out and feed, and often eats only from the water column, so plan on 3–4 small daily feedings. A documented jumper, so a tight-fitting lid is essential.